Bromeliad 'pups' can fill your garden as older plants die

You wouldn’t think that the word “pup” had anything to do with gardening. The dictionary defines a pup as the young of dogs or several other animals. Gardeners, however, use the term to refer to offsets or offshoots — small plants that form at the base of certain plants.

Pups grow from lateral shoots that emerge at or just below soil level. Eventually, especially once they have formed their own roots, they can be separated from the parent plant and potted to grow on their own.

This term is most commonly applied to the offsets of bromeliads. Bromeliads are a wonderful group of tropical or semitropical plants that are easy-to-grow, popular container plants. They are known for their colorful foliage and colorful, long-lasting flowers.

Bromeliads produce pups, which are offsets or babies of the plant.

One of the most striking aspects of the life cycle of bromeliads is that, for most species, once they bloom, they die. Don’t panic; they don’t do it right away. They usually stay attractive for an extended period even after the flower has faded. Eventually, though, no new growth will be produced, and the plant will gradually become less attractive as it begins to die.

Before they die, most bromeliads will send up pups from their base, and these small plants can be used to grow the next generation. The pups produced are actually part of that original plant. As such, they are genetically identical to it and share all of its characteristics. Pups will grow into plants that have the same colorful leaves and flowers as the original plant.

One plant often produces several pups, so you can end up with more bromeliads than you started with. Pups are separated from the original plant any time after they have grown to be about one-third the size of the original plant. As long as they are large enough, this may be done before the original plant dies or has even become unattractive.

There are more than 20 genera of bromeliads with some producing blooms and others that produce color without blooms.

If the original plant has grown unattractive and you intend to discard it after removing the pups, take everything out of the pot to make it easier to work with. Using a sharp knife or hand pruners, cut the pups from the original plant at the point where they are attached at the base. Hopefully, the pups will have some root development — but if they don’t that’s OK. Pups will form their own roots after they are potted.

If the original plant is still attractive, this separation can be done without taking the plant out of the pot.

Once the pups are separated, they should be potted. Most bromeliads look better when they are grown as single specimens. Look at how the bromeliad was growing when you bought or received it. If there was only one plant in the pot, then this generally will be the best way to grow the type you have. Pot each pup individually in a small pot (generally a 4-inch pot is large enough) using a light, fast-draining potting mix.

Growing in pots on a wall helps give bromeliads the light they require.

If the plant was growing in a cluster when you got it, you may choose to continue to grow your bromeliad in a cluster. In this case, the pups are often left to grow all together in the same pot and the original plants are simply cut out when they are no longer attractive.

Should they begin to outgrow the original pot and look too crowded, repot them into a larger container. Or you could separate the pups as directed above and pot them separately to create more individual plants, which will eventually form their own cluster of plants.

Since the newly separated and potted pups will have poorly developed root systems or none at all, you may need to support them initially. This can be done by placing two or three small stakes around the plant until they are well established (chopsticks or pencils work well). Do not plant the pup too deep in an effort to support it, though. Bromeliads should only be planted up to the base of their lowest leaves.

A worker holds up an unusual plant during the 3 River Ridge Bromeliad Society Show in 2018.

While they are rooting, keep the plants in bright light but somewhat less than is provided to established plants. Keep the potting medium moist but allow it to dry somewhat between waterings. If the bromeliad is one of those that forms a cup with its leaves, make sure you keep it filled with water (many bromeliads have the unique ability to absorb water through their leaves). Once the pup is well rooted, provide it with more light.

Adequate light is critical to getting a mature plant that eventually blooms. Blooming, with good care, generally will occur one or two years after separation from the original plant.

Most people have the best success getting a bromeliad to bloom when they put the plants outside during the warm months of April to October. A few hours of sun in the morning and shade the rest of the day seems to work well for many types of bromeliads. The abundant light, warmth and humidity encourages growth and makes blooming more likely to occur.

It’s nice to know that when you buy a bromeliad or receive one as a gift, if all goes well you will end up with more plants than you started with. This is one of the great joys of growing bromeliads and why they are so much fun to collect. You always have extras to share with friends or trade for new types. And dividing bromeliad pups is a great way to develop your plant propagation skills.

Garden columnist Dan Gill answers readers' questions each week. To send a question, email Gill at [email protected].

Dan Gill is a retired consumer horticulture specialist with the LSU AgCenter. He hosts the “Garden Show” on WWL-AM Saturdays at 9 a.m. Email gardening questions to [email protected].

"Do you not realize that the whole thing is miraculous? Surely, you would be surprised if, having snipped off your little finger and pushed it into a flower pot, you were to find a miniature edition of yourself in the flower pot a day later."

Beverly Nichols, writer and playwright on plant propagation